Food hopping in Prayagraj

I have been to Allahabad a few times, but this time around I decided to make the visit more productive. And by productive, I mean exploring a few food outlets and getting to know Allahabad through the food it had to offer. Sadly, the visit happened during peak winters and with Covid still making rounds, so I had to restrict the places I could visit.

Like many of us would, I too turned to Google and YouTube. Went through a few videos and articles and prepared my list. Mrs Katyal was already in Allahabad, visiting her Mum, so took advantage of her knowledge of the local places to prioritise good places over my short trip.
PS - I keep using Allahabad and not Prayagraj, only for the nostalgia the old name creates. I hope readers will be forgiving.
Food experiences are not limited to the destination, they begin en route!

First place on the itinerary was the famous Heera Halwai. One can gauge it's popularity by the fact that the intersection next to which its located takes its name from the shop itself - 'Heera Halwai Chauraha'. While they have a variety of Indian sweets and snacks to offer, most recommended are their samosas and gujiyas. Of course they are best had piping hot, but the warm versions that I had weren't too bad either. The potato masala filling wasn't too spicy and therefore to my liking. Gujiyas too were good, filled with a rich khoya mix. So if you ever have a gujiya craving - head out to Heera Halwai for your fix! They have them on the menu all year round.
Heera Halwai at the Heera Halwai Chauraha

Next on route was the famous North Indian chaat vendor, Shiv Chaat at Bairahana. It's one of the more popular chaat places in Allahabad. You get all sorts of chaats which are typically available at any other place. Locals are very fond of the place, I however found it quite average. At the risk of making it Lucknow vs. Allahabad, I find the chaat at Lucknow better. Nevertheless, if you're in the vicinity, do visit.
The crowd at Shiv Chaat at Bairahana

Very close to Shiv Chaat is Dehati Rasgulla, where the visitors to the city should be ready to be surprised. When someone says rasgullas, non-Allahabad folk would picture soft, white ball shaped, sponge like dumplings made of chenna. That's not how the locals think. Be ready for some deep fried, deep red dumplings served in think sugar syrup. Yes, in Allahabad, gulab jamuns are called rasgullas! Doesn't really matter, because Dehati Rasgulla, serves some really nice gulab jamuns err... rasgullas... err... whatever. Do visit, they are good.
Dehati Rasgulla, the place that tricks you and serves sweet revenge!
We got our lot from a fresh batch that had just arrived

The last place I visited was the quintessential Indian Coffee House at Civil Lines. It was my first ever visit to an Indian Coffee House, anywhere. Lucknow had one, but never got around to visit it. The place would be an ideal place for a lazy Sunday morning breakfast. Order yourself an omelette and a hot cup of Coffee and the day is sorted. I enjoyed their Kheema Omelette and a coffee. Being served by the servers in their iconic white uniform is an experience that requires a whole separate blog post. So more of Coffee House in detail later. So if one wants some old world charm and great food, then head straight to Indian Coffee House.
Indian Coffee House at Civil Lines

Do leave your comments on other great, must visit food places in your city. No one should be deprived of this privilege.

Comments

Aadil Desai said…
Great to see this blog and Allahabad is what I'd call it too. Nice to see the sweet tooth I have will not be disappointed there!!!

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